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Central Virginia Insulation
When energy efficiency is your goal
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Types and descriptions of insulation
Central Va Insulation - The best insulation installation in Richmond Va. Our Richmond Virginia based operation covers all facets of insulation work from attics to walls to crawl spaces and basements. Call us at 804-413-6460 for a free quote.
We are also good communicators. Our goal is to return every call within 24 hours. We would be happy to provide a free quote on your project. Please call the number above or fill out the form below and we will get with you promptly.
We are also good communicators. Our goal is to return every call within 24 hours. We would be happy to provide a free quote on your project. Please call the number above or fill out the form below and we will get with you promptly.
Serving the greater Richmond area and Tidewater
Insulation options
Types of Insulation for Homes and Offices
Insulation can be made from a variety of different materials. These materials can be classified into a few groups. There are bulky fibrous materials such as fiberglass, slag and rock wool, cellulose, natural fibers, rigid foam boards, and sleek foils. Different examples of these will be discussed below. Homeowners today have more options than ever before and can choose based on the type they prefer, the method of installation, whether they can handle it on their own, and more. Some of the types of insulation to consider include the following: Foam Insulation – Foam insulation can be sprayed in place or bought in large pieces that can be cut and put into place. Some materials used in the foam insulation can be fire-resistant, helping to fire-proof the home, or can be made from non-toxic materials for a safer home. It tends to have higher R-values and also forms an air barrier which can reduce or eliminate some other necessities, such as applying caulk. Blown-in Insulation – Blown-in insulation can be fiberglass, cellulose, or other type of insulation. It is blown into place using a large machine to ensure full coverage. This can be used in various parts of the home and is commonly used in larger spaces as it can fill the space quickly. This technique is good for filling places that have old insulation. Blown in insulation does tend to settle downwards over the years. If it is laying flat, this is less of a problem, but if it is in walls, it can settle from the top leaving areas that now do not have any insulation at all. It is very difficult to know when this happens, and refilling it almost never happens. Fiberglass Insulation – Fiberglass is, as the name implies, made from tiny pieces of glass fibers. These fibers combined together in batting are easy to install in attics and other parts of the home, and they can add fire resistance on top of increasing the insulation available in the home. This is also called Blanket insulation and is the most commonly know type. It is placed between joists and rafters in ceilings, floors, and walls. This is usually the least expensive form of insulation. It is available in widths that fit between joists without the need for cutting. Care needs to be taken to install it properly, particularly around outlets, pipes, and wires to insure maximum effect. Of all the types, this is the one most easily done yourself, though many find dealing with insulation is a nasty job best left to a pro. |
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Cellulose Insulation – Cellulose insulation is made from wood or paper or even recycled denim and is typically blown into place. It’s perfect for attics and other large spaces, and it’s often easy to install. It is relatively inexpensive also, which adds to its popularity. Once installed, it can provide more energy-efficiency to the home than other types of insulation. It is one of the oldest materials available.
Radiant-Barrier Insulation – Radiant-barrier is a type of sheathing that’s generally added during new construction, but it can be added to older homes as well. It is commonly used in attics as it can significantly reduce the temperatures in the attic, helping keep the space cooler.
Radiant heat travels away from any surface and heats up anything that absorbs the energy it produces. The suns heat is absorbed through the shingles or other roofing material into the attic. A radiant heat barrier serves to reduce the heat from the underside of the roof to other attic surfaces. This type of insulation is much more effective in hot climates.
Radiant heat travels away from any surface and heats up anything that absorbs the energy it produces. The suns heat is absorbed through the shingles or other roofing material into the attic. A radiant heat barrier serves to reduce the heat from the underside of the roof to other attic surfaces. This type of insulation is much more effective in hot climates.
The difference between open cell and closed cell polyurethane - Before moving on to the next couple of types, we need to take a look at the difference between open cell and closed cell. These are two different types of insulation, each with its own pros and cons and neither necessarily better than the other. There are a couple characteristics we will look at.
The first is the cells. Spray foam is made up of very small bubbles, or cells. In closed cell foam, the cells are completely encapsulated, or closed. This means they are pressed together into a rigid, stable foam that prevents moisture and air from penetrating it. Closed cell is also much more dense than open.
In open cell foam, the cells are deliberately left open making it much softer and more pliable. It is necessarily less dense than closed cell.
As a consequence of the cell difference between the two, closed cell is about 3 times as dense as open cell, with a density of about 1.6 pounds per cubic foot as opposed to only about 0.5 pounds for open cell.
As far as R-value is concerned, closed cell is almost twice as high as open, usually around 6.0 per inch, but this can run over 7.0 for some types of closed cell foam. Open cell on the other hand runs around 3.5 per inch, making it not the best choice in extreme temperature conditions.
Another characteristic of cell foam is expansion. This is important with regards to application. Open cell is designed to expand to around 3 inches of thickness, which means in most standard walls only one application is possible. Closed cell is designed to expand to only about 1 inch of thickness when sprayed in, with each application offering an R-value of 6.0. Since multiple applications can be applied, R-values in excess of 21.0 can be achieved with this.
The first is the cells. Spray foam is made up of very small bubbles, or cells. In closed cell foam, the cells are completely encapsulated, or closed. This means they are pressed together into a rigid, stable foam that prevents moisture and air from penetrating it. Closed cell is also much more dense than open.
In open cell foam, the cells are deliberately left open making it much softer and more pliable. It is necessarily less dense than closed cell.
As a consequence of the cell difference between the two, closed cell is about 3 times as dense as open cell, with a density of about 1.6 pounds per cubic foot as opposed to only about 0.5 pounds for open cell.
As far as R-value is concerned, closed cell is almost twice as high as open, usually around 6.0 per inch, but this can run over 7.0 for some types of closed cell foam. Open cell on the other hand runs around 3.5 per inch, making it not the best choice in extreme temperature conditions.
Another characteristic of cell foam is expansion. This is important with regards to application. Open cell is designed to expand to around 3 inches of thickness, which means in most standard walls only one application is possible. Closed cell is designed to expand to only about 1 inch of thickness when sprayed in, with each application offering an R-value of 6.0. Since multiple applications can be applied, R-values in excess of 21.0 can be achieved with this.
Open-Cell Polyurethane Spray Foam – This contains a small amount of petroleum based or plant based plastic. During application, VOCs and chemicals can be released which can have health implications so it is best to wait a couple days before entering rooms where this was done. Without the right equipment to install this, it is extremely difficult to do yourself. This is frequently called 5-pound foam. One of the most profound benefits of using open cell is its tendency to expand after application, making it very effective when being applied to hard to reach places. It is also very effecting as a soundproofing barrier on inside walls.
Closed-Cell Polyurethane Spray Foam – Referred to as 2 pound foam, it requires significantly more material than its open-cell cousin. It can have environmental impact due to the blowing agents employed. Closed cell is best used in narrower spaces as it can achieve higher R-values than open cell in less space. Also its rigid nature adds strength to walls, it fire retardant, and it acts as a vapor barrier as well since the foam is unharmed by water.
Polyisocyanurate SIPs – This has the highest R-value of all the insulations, with a thickness below 2 inches. It usually has a foil face with is an excellent moisture barrier. It tends to be quite expensive.
For new homes the best options are considered to be spray foam, fiberglass, or cellulose.
Make sure your installer gives you all the options, each with its own pros and cons. This is not a one-size-fits-all business.
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Closed-Cell Polyurethane Spray Foam – Referred to as 2 pound foam, it requires significantly more material than its open-cell cousin. It can have environmental impact due to the blowing agents employed. Closed cell is best used in narrower spaces as it can achieve higher R-values than open cell in less space. Also its rigid nature adds strength to walls, it fire retardant, and it acts as a vapor barrier as well since the foam is unharmed by water.
Polyisocyanurate SIPs – This has the highest R-value of all the insulations, with a thickness below 2 inches. It usually has a foil face with is an excellent moisture barrier. It tends to be quite expensive.
For new homes the best options are considered to be spray foam, fiberglass, or cellulose.
Make sure your installer gives you all the options, each with its own pros and cons. This is not a one-size-fits-all business.
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